You’ve got to love a garment that communicates to the wearer.
“We suggest wearing a minimum of 60 times before first wash”: Wallace & Barnes
“Could you survive for 40 days and 40 nights on a piece of tofu the size of this Maharishi washcare label?”: Maharishi
“Dry Clean only. Don’t come crying to us if your mum shrinks it”: Duffer of StGeorge
My relationship with a pair of chinos, or khakis, began when I read ACL’s review of a pair made by J.Crew, under their Wallace & Barnes sub-brand. Wallace & Barnes is J.Crew’s workwear orientated brand, and seemingly where they hide the really good stuff.
I’ve tried and failed so many times with chinos, always reaching for a pair of jeans in the morning, over whatever the latest style of chino I’d bought. I’ve got a drawer full of the bloody things.
However, these chinos are different: they’re a match for any expensive, raw denim pair of jeans. They’re made on narrow looms from 11½oz Japanese selvedge cotton: the red selvedge thread visible on the turn up cuff. Like all good workwear, the material is also sanforized, so these chinos are tough and will not shrink; so buy to fit. They’re exceptionally stiff when new, but over time, they soften and mould themselves to your shape. The attention to detail is exceptional, with button fly and triangular back pocket flaps.
Supply of these fine trousers into the UK is limited, which means that a trip to J.Crew Lambs Conduit St is advisable if you’re going to invest in a pair.
J.Crew on Lambs Conduit St is small and beautifully formed, with J.Crew’s multiple excellent collaborations with other brands available there alongside the best J.Crew has to offer. It’s run by David, who is friendly and knows his menswear, so you can have a good chat about what’s what while you’re there. It’s how shopping should be.
These chinos are expensive, but if you’re a firm believer in Considered Consumption, you’ll soon get over the price. As the label says, "They get better with age," and become so comfortable you’ll reach for them every morning.